Today is Friday, 14 October, and I am in Southampton England with Mai Lara and Andy. I sat with Mai Lara yesterday as she had her second chemo session.  The first session,  two weeks ago, was without issue. This morning she woke up with a fever and is at the hospital right now getting an IV antibiotic treatment. She and Andy should be home soon. She is not feeling ill,  only tired. It is very good to be with them.
I, too, have been tired!  Did all my Camino laundry and have looked at my photos at different moments.  I am in awe that I took those photos and experienced all the places and people and special moments!  Truly amazing.  I thank God for the opportunity to walk this pilgrimage. Actually I thank God for all the opportunities I have had in my life. I am truly a blessed woman!  I will be processing the past days for a very long time.  I do already know I am reaffirmed in my belief that people are good and kind and helpful and thoughtful, and loving and supportive and, just plain wonderful, whether they are from the US, England, Germany, Australia, New Zealand, Poland, South Korea, Bulgaria,  Hungary , Denmark,  Sweden, Africa, Syria, Holland, Switzerland
and all other nations!!!!!

18 October 2016
It is now the 18th and I return to the states tomorrow  I have do enjoyed being with Mai Lara and Andy and feel good about Mai Lara's course of treatment. She has been very, very tired since the second chemo and I know she will be after the next treatment a week from Thursday, but no other significant side effects which is great!  I will return for her surgery in the next month. The date has not been set. Thank you all for your concern.
I have had time to reflect on my journey but am not sure about what is next. I do know I want to treasure each and every day.  I want to simplify my life. I want to stay in good shape, but not sure I will be walking 12-15 miles a day!
Thank you for journeying with me this past six weeks.  it has been a wonderful physical,  emotional and spiritual journey which I will continue to process.  Not sure when I will shut this down.  Guess I want to complete my journey by getting back to Carlisle!  I must say that returning to be with Mai Lara and Andy has certainly brought me to back to the realities of life in a very short time.
Please keep her, and Andy in your prayers. Thank you.  Be Well, Jerry

It is Monday about 5pm and I am sitting in the Santa Clara Alburgue/Hotel all purpose room for pilgrims.  Karen's sister recommended the Alburgue to us and it is nice.  Too much culture shock to go to some fancy hotel as at first we thought we would.  Less than ten minutes from the Cathedral in Santiago.
We arrived in Santiago on Friday about 9am.  Stood in line for an hour to get our Compostela!  Lines today are three hours.  Anyway, we walked to theCathedral and just stood there. I simply could not believe I had been walking for 37 days, counting the three days off where we walked around Logrono, Burgos and Leon all day!  It seemed surreal.  Still standing and in good shape.  Other than the two blisters early on and my back/ shoulder issues which I needed to compensate for by sending my pack forward less than ten days, I am good to go(not far!).  I thank God that I really could do it!
We ran into Brenda, and Michelle from Alabama.  Also saw Paul and Tess from Oregon, Susanna from Germany,Jim from Canada. And, as we were leaving the plaza we saw Rosa from Switzerland. She is one of our favorites. Rosa was just arriving in Santiago, saw us and dissolved into tears. We hugged and hugged!  Saw her at the evening Mass and went to a bar for Sangria and Tapas.  So happy to see each other.  Went to the 7:30 Mass and saw them swing the Borafumeria.  Really great.  They would swing the urn in the early days to fumigate for the filth and illnesses of the pilgrims lots of incense!
Went to our hotel and slept in and how wonderful it was to be in a normal bed with no one above me!!!
On Saturday we walked to the Cathedral again. Ran into Omar from Syria who walked the last many kilometers with tendinitis.  I am so sorry I didn't get his email.  I wish him well. And, we did not get Ian's or Maggie from Australia. Regretful to be sure.   While standing in theCathedral plaza, Walter and Peggy showed up.  And, Paul the priest from Reno and his walking partner, Laurie.  Just too wonderful to know they all finished!  Oh, Friday afterMass there was a wonderful pilgrim meeting. In front of us was Kathy fromGermany. We had met her in Orisson, night one of our walk.  She had a very nice young man with her who translated parts of the pilgrims meeting to us. Kathy was happy to see we finished!!  Back to Saturday, a young woman from Denmark, Michelle, who was with us in St Jean came up to us.  Her boyfriend, Simon, came from Denmark to meet her in front of the Cathedral.    She could not find him and called him on her phone.  He was about 15 yards in front of her!  We were very happy to see her. I hope one day she and Simon visit the states.
Yesterday, Sunday, we took a ten hour buss ride to Muxia and Finisterre.  We decided to let the bus do the walking and what a great decision!!!  Oh back to Saturday. Karen and I went to Mass again but didn't see each other until after it was ver. She saw John who told us our young friend, Michael, had just arrived in town.
Muxia is translated "death".  It is a town on a very harsh part of the ocean where the weather is really harsh.  Many lose their lives in the torrential winds and rain.  Visited the Virgin of the Seas Church.  Then drove to Finisterre considered the end of the world in the early days when they thought was flat. Took a photo of Mile 0.  Saw Paul and Laurie again. Also saw Jim, who decided to walk there. Takes 4 days!  After we returned to Santiago, we walked to the plaza again and ran into Barclay from Canada!  Still have not seen Michael. But today, Monday, we woke up hoping we would see Ida and Marilyn from Holland. Guess what!?  We went to Mass again and Karen got up to walk around.  She came back and had seen Marilyn and her husband!!!  She texted Ida and after Mass, Ida and her husband who had come to meet her as a surprise, met us for lunch! What good fortune as we were upset we had no contact info for them.
We still have a few hours left but I know Ian and Omar had to leave upon arrival so we will not see them.  However, maybe Maggie will show up!
Helen and Karen leave early tomorrow morning to take a train to Madrid where they will stay the night and then return to the states on Weds.  I will fly from here to Madrid to London tomorrow.  I will stay with Andy and Mai Lara a week. Mai Lara has had her first of three chemo treatments scheduled befor surgery.  She did not get sick, only very tired.  We are very grateful.  I will ho with her for her second treatment and hope it turns out the same.  I am excited to see them and to spend some time helping them in any way I can.
I will write some thoughts over the exit few days before signing off.  In the meantime, I want to let you each know how absolutely wonderful it was to receive your texts, I messages, emails, blog comments.  I want to thank you for cheering me on during some very difficult days and for celebrating with me some of the very powerful moments.  Thank you so very much.  As most of you know, I treasure my relationships and believe they are essential in my journey through life.
And, Karen just came in to tell me Maggie from Australua, is on our floor!!!!!!  This is another true miracle of the Camino!  I only wish Ian and Omar would appear, but I will have to let them go and hold them in prayer.  Must go see Maggie. Buen Camino!!!

Just outside Santiago!  We stopped in Monte de Gozo, 5 k's out of Santiago.  Staying in an Alburgue equipped to house 400 pilgrims, but I think there are about 100 of us.  We saw the statue of the pilgrims overlooking Santiago. We stood there and watched the sun begin to set over Santiago. So very beautiful.  Karen and I wanted to attend 7:30 Mass and we are so happy we did.  Tiny little church filled with about 18 pilgrims. During the kiss of peace, Father walked out and shook each of our hands.  After Mass the peregrines gathered around the altar.  He went around and asked where we were each from and a little about our Camino.  He told us he was from Angola, Africa.  He then gave us a blessing and THEN pulled out his guitar and sang a song. WOW.  These are the special times on the Camino!  I forgot to tell you that yesterday we bought our Croissants and Cafe con Leche at a Bakery.  The proprietor then bought a plate of delicious pastries for each of our three tables and told us they were on the house!!!
Tomorrow morning we walk into Santiago, drop our bags at our hostel and go to the pilgrim office to stand in line for two hours for our hard earned Compostela!!  Tomorrow night at 7:30 there is Mass and the swinging of the Boto Fumera(sp?), a giant urn with incense. We hope to see many pilgrims we know!  Buen Camino!!!

At, I think, the oldest monastery in the world.  Built in 600, it is a Benedictine monastery.  Just had a tour, will go to Vespers at 7:30 and Mass at 8.  Leave tomorrow for Sarria and the last 117 km of the journey.  Can hardly believe we have been on The Way for 4 weeks!  It has been truly a journey of body? Mind and spirit.  Today coming into Samos was absolutely beautiful. I said a RosaryforMai Lara as she whims her chemo today.  I have tried to call but her scheduled time was 3:30 to 5:30 and at the moment is on her way home.
I was behind an old man and a young man for a few minutes. I was so moved by them.  I took a photo from behind and just listened as the old man talked about Moby Dick and To Kill a Mockingbird and Eisenhower and, as he was talking the young man was just looking at him and nodding. An, walking very slowly.  It was a moving moment as I took in the passing on of wisdom and knowledge while the young man just held the old man's story with such respect.  After a time I felt like I was intruding and passed them. Just one memory!
I am so impressed with the respect the young have shown to us!  They have validated our efforts, celebrated our courage and determination, and supported us as we have had tomake tough decisions to skip some parts. We have seen less than 15 in their 70's and one Frenchman who is 82 and puts all to shame!!! He and his 75 year old wife walk hand in hand down steep hills and are a lovely couple!
I go not understand why no one told me about one minor issue.  And that is, going into the bathroom with lights on, sitting down and off go the lights!  It is pitch dark with no light and the toilet paper is who knows where?!?!  Sometimes motion brings on the lights, but don't count on it!!!  Also the showers shut off every 20 seconds and must be turned on again and again and again!!!  Breakfast consists of toast and coffee con leche!  I usually can get coco cau or hot chocolate.  When we do get juice it is fresh squeezed and what a treat!!
Just some points of interest!  I want to tell you what has been happening in the past few days!  On 25 Sept, we had a shorter day than we thought and arrived in Rabnal at 10:30 debated overcoffeevon leche whether to stay at Guacelmo or move on. We stayed and it was wonderful.  In order to stay you had to be carrying your backpack. Only 32 beds. mass at 12:30, Vespers which was the Gregorian Chant.  Spectacular and special to Helen because it was Bob's favorite!  Then we had a Pilgrim Blessing.
On 26 September, we walked to Cruz de Ferro which is the highest point in the Camino and consists of an enormous cross and piles of rocks. The rocks are from all the pilgrims who have passed by and left their crosses symbolizing I burdening our loads some leave many rocks and some only one. Some come from home. Mine came from the ground I walked as I thought

Weds, 5 October
We walked 10 miles today and are about 15 from Santiago. I can hardly believe it!  Staying in A Rua at Hotel O'Pines.  Three of us in normal single beds in one room with our own bathroom!  We are enjoying the luxury because tomorrow night we are staying in a 400 bed municipal Albergue that is divided into something like 62 cell blocks!  I think we are going to prison!  The following morning we walk 5 k into Santiago!
Walked with a young Syrian Doctor, Omar, who emigrated to Germany 2 1/2 years ago. He wanted to go to the USA because he thinks the medical system is better but needed to take three exams. Took one and passed but time and lack of money, plus a family who helped him out, determined his immediate future. He has settled in Germany and has learned the language in the time he has been there.  He speaks Arabic and English.  So interesting.  Has tendinitis and struggling to finish, but he will!  Also talked with Norma, a woman who emigrated from El Salvador to Australia in the 80s during the El Salvador civil war.  Fascinating stories.
I am reaffirmed daily in my belief that people are good and kind and caring.  I have met people from so many countries. I am reminded of my days at SHAPE( military part of NATO: Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers Europe or Super Holiday at Public Expense!). Anyway, we were with peoples of 18 nations and then I learned that we are all so much more alike than not.  On this pilgrimage I believe the same!  Buen Camino!

Today we walked 9 miles from Melide to Arzua.  Karen wanted some alone time and started alone but we ended together. Actually I walked most of the way alone also.  I just wanted to savor each moment as I know this journey which I have been planning since January, is coming to an end. I know I will be processing my memories for a very long time.
As I was walking today, the director of the Korean group, sunny, and one of the young women in the group, Joey, walked with me and asked me why I was walking.  We talked awhile and then they sang "May The road rise to meet you, may the wind be always at your back."  It was a very special moment, and of course I hugged and thanked them.  I later had someone take a picture of the three of us. I want to remember.
I talked to Dorid fromGermany and a young woman from Poland. We arrived at our Alburgue and have a room for three on the main floor. Great! Prepared soup in the kitchen.  Kara from Canada joined her mother in Sarria and they are here along with Josie from Holland.  And I understand a young doctor from Syria is staying here. Would love to meet him and hear his story.
One of the Korean girls asked to interview me so we did that.  Had a little trouble finding her as she used Amelia as her name when talking to me but that is not her Korean name.  The director wasn't sure which person was calling herself "Amelia"!  We found her. She explained she and her friends have named themselves with names the Americans and Europeans can pronounce!
Went to a Pilgrim Mass and had a nice Pilgrim Blessing!  Must walk 12 miles tomorrow. So off to bed!  Buen Camino!

Very frustrated as I know I wrote on this two days ago and I guess it didn't publish. I will try to bring you up to date so much happens in a day. I think I will spend many hours processing this journey. On 25 Sept we arrived in Rabinal at 10:30.  Really too early to stop but we had been told so much about the monastery Alburgue that we ultimately put our packs in line and waited until 1:30 to sign in and get a bed.  Went to noon Mass. The church was very simple and beautiful.  Signed In and were able to get three lower bunks in the annex.  Went to tea at 4 and met some of our fellow pilgrims.  Vespers were at 7 and the three monks sang the Gregorian Chant.  It was Bob's favorite and one one of the highlights for Helen. I love the Gregorian Chant and the environment just made it all so wonderful.  Had supper and returned for night prayer and a pilgrim blessing at 9:30. Happy we stayed!!
The next morning we started for Cruz de Ferro, the highest point in the Camino and where pilgrims leave rocks they have picked up on the way or brought from home, to put at the foot of the cross to symbolize letting go or unburdening.  I decided to pick up a stone for those in my life I was thinking about and praying for on my journey. I was happy to get to the cross and empty my waist pack of many stones!!
Fast forward to Ponferrada where we visited the Knights Templar Castle of the 1400s.  Had an ice dinner. Met Lily from Brazil, living in Australia. So fun.
Made a decision to skip a couple of stages so took a bus and taxi to Herrerias where we had made reservations withVictor to take us up a steep mountain on horses!  I had Bunny and she took good care of me, knowing right where to step on this mountain of stones and rocks. Victor was wonderful. He walked the entire way up. He arranged our taxi to Triacastle and stayed Alburgue Limos. New and very nice.  Had paella for supper at a lively pilgrim cafe!!
The next day walked to Samos and a 6thcentury monastery that Karen wanted to take a detour for. Along the way I followed an old man and a young man. The young man was so calm and such a good listener. The old man was talking about life and literature and art.  It was so moving.
Arrived in Samos. Got in line for a bed in the monastery. One of the pilgrims said she had stayed before I asked what it was like and she said it definitely was not a five star.  I asked how many stars she would give it, at which point the hospitalero looked me and said it had no stars it is a church and has a cross!  Point taken.  We did have hot water!  At Mass a group of young South Korean youth sand and played drums and guitars. Afterwards they gave a concert on the monastery lawn. Very neat.
Went from Samos to beyond Samos. Down to the last 100 kilometers!
Stayed in Barbadello and then walked 15 k to Portmarin.  Met up with several pilgrims we had met along the way. Fun!  On the way I walked with Ian, a priest from CA who is on leave of absence. He was the youngest man to be ordained in his diocese. He is now 33. Said he shed many tears and fought through lots of fear but he made a good decision to take a leave of absence and if he returns he will be a better priest. Good for him! On one of the hills I told him to go on and I told him when we see each other again it will be very exciting and we will hug as long lost friends! That is the strange thing about this pilgrimage: you meet someone and talk for 20 minutes then the next time you see each other it is a real happening!  Last night, two days after I met him, I am going into a restaurant and I hear "Jerry, Jerry" and up comes Ian and we hug and greet each other as long lost friends!!!!
Enough for now. Helen and Karen want to decide where to stay tomorrow night!