Today is Friday, 14 October, and I am in Southampton England with Mai Lara and Andy. I sat with Mai Lara yesterday as she had her second chemo session.  The first session,  two weeks ago, was without issue. This morning she woke up with a fever and is at the hospital right now getting an IV antibiotic treatment. She and Andy should be home soon. She is not feeling ill,  only tired. It is very good to be with them.
I, too, have been tired!  Did all my Camino laundry and have looked at my photos at different moments.  I am in awe that I took those photos and experienced all the places and people and special moments!  Truly amazing.  I thank God for the opportunity to walk this pilgrimage. Actually I thank God for all the opportunities I have had in my life. I am truly a blessed woman!  I will be processing the past days for a very long time.  I do already know I am reaffirmed in my belief that people are good and kind and helpful and thoughtful, and loving and supportive and, just plain wonderful, whether they are from the US, England, Germany, Australia, New Zealand, Poland, South Korea, Bulgaria,  Hungary , Denmark,  Sweden, Africa, Syria, Holland, Switzerland
and all other nations!!!!!

18 October 2016
It is now the 18th and I return to the states tomorrow  I have do enjoyed being with Mai Lara and Andy and feel good about Mai Lara's course of treatment. She has been very, very tired since the second chemo and I know she will be after the next treatment a week from Thursday, but no other significant side effects which is great!  I will return for her surgery in the next month. The date has not been set. Thank you all for your concern.
I have had time to reflect on my journey but am not sure about what is next. I do know I want to treasure each and every day.  I want to simplify my life. I want to stay in good shape, but not sure I will be walking 12-15 miles a day!
Thank you for journeying with me this past six weeks.  it has been a wonderful physical,  emotional and spiritual journey which I will continue to process.  Not sure when I will shut this down.  Guess I want to complete my journey by getting back to Carlisle!  I must say that returning to be with Mai Lara and Andy has certainly brought me to back to the realities of life in a very short time.
Please keep her, and Andy in your prayers. Thank you.  Be Well, Jerry

It is Monday about 5pm and I am sitting in the Santa Clara Alburgue/Hotel all purpose room for pilgrims.  Karen's sister recommended the Alburgue to us and it is nice.  Too much culture shock to go to some fancy hotel as at first we thought we would.  Less than ten minutes from the Cathedral in Santiago.
We arrived in Santiago on Friday about 9am.  Stood in line for an hour to get our Compostela!  Lines today are three hours.  Anyway, we walked to theCathedral and just stood there. I simply could not believe I had been walking for 37 days, counting the three days off where we walked around Logrono, Burgos and Leon all day!  It seemed surreal.  Still standing and in good shape.  Other than the two blisters early on and my back/ shoulder issues which I needed to compensate for by sending my pack forward less than ten days, I am good to go(not far!).  I thank God that I really could do it!
We ran into Brenda, and Michelle from Alabama.  Also saw Paul and Tess from Oregon, Susanna from Germany,Jim from Canada. And, as we were leaving the plaza we saw Rosa from Switzerland. She is one of our favorites. Rosa was just arriving in Santiago, saw us and dissolved into tears. We hugged and hugged!  Saw her at the evening Mass and went to a bar for Sangria and Tapas.  So happy to see each other.  Went to the 7:30 Mass and saw them swing the Borafumeria.  Really great.  They would swing the urn in the early days to fumigate for the filth and illnesses of the pilgrims lots of incense!
Went to our hotel and slept in and how wonderful it was to be in a normal bed with no one above me!!!
On Saturday we walked to the Cathedral again. Ran into Omar from Syria who walked the last many kilometers with tendinitis.  I am so sorry I didn't get his email.  I wish him well. And, we did not get Ian's or Maggie from Australia. Regretful to be sure.   While standing in theCathedral plaza, Walter and Peggy showed up.  And, Paul the priest from Reno and his walking partner, Laurie.  Just too wonderful to know they all finished!  Oh, Friday afterMass there was a wonderful pilgrim meeting. In front of us was Kathy fromGermany. We had met her in Orisson, night one of our walk.  She had a very nice young man with her who translated parts of the pilgrims meeting to us. Kathy was happy to see we finished!!  Back to Saturday, a young woman from Denmark, Michelle, who was with us in St Jean came up to us.  Her boyfriend, Simon, came from Denmark to meet her in front of the Cathedral.    She could not find him and called him on her phone.  He was about 15 yards in front of her!  We were very happy to see her. I hope one day she and Simon visit the states.
Yesterday, Sunday, we took a ten hour buss ride to Muxia and Finisterre.  We decided to let the bus do the walking and what a great decision!!!  Oh back to Saturday. Karen and I went to Mass again but didn't see each other until after it was ver. She saw John who told us our young friend, Michael, had just arrived in town.
Muxia is translated "death".  It is a town on a very harsh part of the ocean where the weather is really harsh.  Many lose their lives in the torrential winds and rain.  Visited the Virgin of the Seas Church.  Then drove to Finisterre considered the end of the world in the early days when they thought was flat. Took a photo of Mile 0.  Saw Paul and Laurie again. Also saw Jim, who decided to walk there. Takes 4 days!  After we returned to Santiago, we walked to the plaza again and ran into Barclay from Canada!  Still have not seen Michael. But today, Monday, we woke up hoping we would see Ida and Marilyn from Holland. Guess what!?  We went to Mass again and Karen got up to walk around.  She came back and had seen Marilyn and her husband!!!  She texted Ida and after Mass, Ida and her husband who had come to meet her as a surprise, met us for lunch! What good fortune as we were upset we had no contact info for them.
We still have a few hours left but I know Ian and Omar had to leave upon arrival so we will not see them.  However, maybe Maggie will show up!
Helen and Karen leave early tomorrow morning to take a train to Madrid where they will stay the night and then return to the states on Weds.  I will fly from here to Madrid to London tomorrow.  I will stay with Andy and Mai Lara a week. Mai Lara has had her first of three chemo treatments scheduled befor surgery.  She did not get sick, only very tired.  We are very grateful.  I will ho with her for her second treatment and hope it turns out the same.  I am excited to see them and to spend some time helping them in any way I can.
I will write some thoughts over the exit few days before signing off.  In the meantime, I want to let you each know how absolutely wonderful it was to receive your texts, I messages, emails, blog comments.  I want to thank you for cheering me on during some very difficult days and for celebrating with me some of the very powerful moments.  Thank you so very much.  As most of you know, I treasure my relationships and believe they are essential in my journey through life.
And, Karen just came in to tell me Maggie from Australua, is on our floor!!!!!!  This is another true miracle of the Camino!  I only wish Ian and Omar would appear, but I will have to let them go and hold them in prayer.  Must go see Maggie. Buen Camino!!!

Just outside Santiago!  We stopped in Monte de Gozo, 5 k's out of Santiago.  Staying in an Alburgue equipped to house 400 pilgrims, but I think there are about 100 of us.  We saw the statue of the pilgrims overlooking Santiago. We stood there and watched the sun begin to set over Santiago. So very beautiful.  Karen and I wanted to attend 7:30 Mass and we are so happy we did.  Tiny little church filled with about 18 pilgrims. During the kiss of peace, Father walked out and shook each of our hands.  After Mass the peregrines gathered around the altar.  He went around and asked where we were each from and a little about our Camino.  He told us he was from Angola, Africa.  He then gave us a blessing and THEN pulled out his guitar and sang a song. WOW.  These are the special times on the Camino!  I forgot to tell you that yesterday we bought our Croissants and Cafe con Leche at a Bakery.  The proprietor then bought a plate of delicious pastries for each of our three tables and told us they were on the house!!!
Tomorrow morning we walk into Santiago, drop our bags at our hostel and go to the pilgrim office to stand in line for two hours for our hard earned Compostela!!  Tomorrow night at 7:30 there is Mass and the swinging of the Boto Fumera(sp?), a giant urn with incense. We hope to see many pilgrims we know!  Buen Camino!!!

At, I think, the oldest monastery in the world.  Built in 600, it is a Benedictine monastery.  Just had a tour, will go to Vespers at 7:30 and Mass at 8.  Leave tomorrow for Sarria and the last 117 km of the journey.  Can hardly believe we have been on The Way for 4 weeks!  It has been truly a journey of body? Mind and spirit.  Today coming into Samos was absolutely beautiful. I said a RosaryforMai Lara as she whims her chemo today.  I have tried to call but her scheduled time was 3:30 to 5:30 and at the moment is on her way home.
I was behind an old man and a young man for a few minutes. I was so moved by them.  I took a photo from behind and just listened as the old man talked about Moby Dick and To Kill a Mockingbird and Eisenhower and, as he was talking the young man was just looking at him and nodding. An, walking very slowly.  It was a moving moment as I took in the passing on of wisdom and knowledge while the young man just held the old man's story with such respect.  After a time I felt like I was intruding and passed them. Just one memory!
I am so impressed with the respect the young have shown to us!  They have validated our efforts, celebrated our courage and determination, and supported us as we have had tomake tough decisions to skip some parts. We have seen less than 15 in their 70's and one Frenchman who is 82 and puts all to shame!!! He and his 75 year old wife walk hand in hand down steep hills and are a lovely couple!
I go not understand why no one told me about one minor issue.  And that is, going into the bathroom with lights on, sitting down and off go the lights!  It is pitch dark with no light and the toilet paper is who knows where?!?!  Sometimes motion brings on the lights, but don't count on it!!!  Also the showers shut off every 20 seconds and must be turned on again and again and again!!!  Breakfast consists of toast and coffee con leche!  I usually can get coco cau or hot chocolate.  When we do get juice it is fresh squeezed and what a treat!!
Just some points of interest!  I want to tell you what has been happening in the past few days!  On 25 Sept, we had a shorter day than we thought and arrived in Rabnal at 10:30 debated overcoffeevon leche whether to stay at Guacelmo or move on. We stayed and it was wonderful.  In order to stay you had to be carrying your backpack. Only 32 beds. mass at 12:30, Vespers which was the Gregorian Chant.  Spectacular and special to Helen because it was Bob's favorite!  Then we had a Pilgrim Blessing.
On 26 September, we walked to Cruz de Ferro which is the highest point in the Camino and consists of an enormous cross and piles of rocks. The rocks are from all the pilgrims who have passed by and left their crosses symbolizing I burdening our loads some leave many rocks and some only one. Some come from home. Mine came from the ground I walked as I thought

Weds, 5 October
We walked 10 miles today and are about 15 from Santiago. I can hardly believe it!  Staying in A Rua at Hotel O'Pines.  Three of us in normal single beds in one room with our own bathroom!  We are enjoying the luxury because tomorrow night we are staying in a 400 bed municipal Albergue that is divided into something like 62 cell blocks!  I think we are going to prison!  The following morning we walk 5 k into Santiago!
Walked with a young Syrian Doctor, Omar, who emigrated to Germany 2 1/2 years ago. He wanted to go to the USA because he thinks the medical system is better but needed to take three exams. Took one and passed but time and lack of money, plus a family who helped him out, determined his immediate future. He has settled in Germany and has learned the language in the time he has been there.  He speaks Arabic and English.  So interesting.  Has tendinitis and struggling to finish, but he will!  Also talked with Norma, a woman who emigrated from El Salvador to Australia in the 80s during the El Salvador civil war.  Fascinating stories.
I am reaffirmed daily in my belief that people are good and kind and caring.  I have met people from so many countries. I am reminded of my days at SHAPE( military part of NATO: Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers Europe or Super Holiday at Public Expense!). Anyway, we were with peoples of 18 nations and then I learned that we are all so much more alike than not.  On this pilgrimage I believe the same!  Buen Camino!

Today we walked 9 miles from Melide to Arzua.  Karen wanted some alone time and started alone but we ended together. Actually I walked most of the way alone also.  I just wanted to savor each moment as I know this journey which I have been planning since January, is coming to an end. I know I will be processing my memories for a very long time.
As I was walking today, the director of the Korean group, sunny, and one of the young women in the group, Joey, walked with me and asked me why I was walking.  We talked awhile and then they sang "May The road rise to meet you, may the wind be always at your back."  It was a very special moment, and of course I hugged and thanked them.  I later had someone take a picture of the three of us. I want to remember.
I talked to Dorid fromGermany and a young woman from Poland. We arrived at our Alburgue and have a room for three on the main floor. Great! Prepared soup in the kitchen.  Kara from Canada joined her mother in Sarria and they are here along with Josie from Holland.  And I understand a young doctor from Syria is staying here. Would love to meet him and hear his story.
One of the Korean girls asked to interview me so we did that.  Had a little trouble finding her as she used Amelia as her name when talking to me but that is not her Korean name.  The director wasn't sure which person was calling herself "Amelia"!  We found her. She explained she and her friends have named themselves with names the Americans and Europeans can pronounce!
Went to a Pilgrim Mass and had a nice Pilgrim Blessing!  Must walk 12 miles tomorrow. So off to bed!  Buen Camino!

Very frustrated as I know I wrote on this two days ago and I guess it didn't publish. I will try to bring you up to date so much happens in a day. I think I will spend many hours processing this journey. On 25 Sept we arrived in Rabinal at 10:30.  Really too early to stop but we had been told so much about the monastery Alburgue that we ultimately put our packs in line and waited until 1:30 to sign in and get a bed.  Went to noon Mass. The church was very simple and beautiful.  Signed In and were able to get three lower bunks in the annex.  Went to tea at 4 and met some of our fellow pilgrims.  Vespers were at 7 and the three monks sang the Gregorian Chant.  It was Bob's favorite and one one of the highlights for Helen. I love the Gregorian Chant and the environment just made it all so wonderful.  Had supper and returned for night prayer and a pilgrim blessing at 9:30. Happy we stayed!!
The next morning we started for Cruz de Ferro, the highest point in the Camino and where pilgrims leave rocks they have picked up on the way or brought from home, to put at the foot of the cross to symbolize letting go or unburdening.  I decided to pick up a stone for those in my life I was thinking about and praying for on my journey. I was happy to get to the cross and empty my waist pack of many stones!!
Fast forward to Ponferrada where we visited the Knights Templar Castle of the 1400s.  Had an ice dinner. Met Lily from Brazil, living in Australia. So fun.
Made a decision to skip a couple of stages so took a bus and taxi to Herrerias where we had made reservations withVictor to take us up a steep mountain on horses!  I had Bunny and she took good care of me, knowing right where to step on this mountain of stones and rocks. Victor was wonderful. He walked the entire way up. He arranged our taxi to Triacastle and stayed Alburgue Limos. New and very nice.  Had paella for supper at a lively pilgrim cafe!!
The next day walked to Samos and a 6thcentury monastery that Karen wanted to take a detour for. Along the way I followed an old man and a young man. The young man was so calm and such a good listener. The old man was talking about life and literature and art.  It was so moving.
Arrived in Samos. Got in line for a bed in the monastery. One of the pilgrims said she had stayed before I asked what it was like and she said it definitely was not a five star.  I asked how many stars she would give it, at which point the hospitalero looked me and said it had no stars it is a church and has a cross!  Point taken.  We did have hot water!  At Mass a group of young South Korean youth sand and played drums and guitars. Afterwards they gave a concert on the monastery lawn. Very neat.
Went from Samos to beyond Samos. Down to the last 100 kilometers!
Stayed in Barbadello and then walked 15 k to Portmarin.  Met up with several pilgrims we had met along the way. Fun!  On the way I walked with Ian, a priest from CA who is on leave of absence. He was the youngest man to be ordained in his diocese. He is now 33. Said he shed many tears and fought through lots of fear but he made a good decision to take a leave of absence and if he returns he will be a better priest. Good for him! On one of the hills I told him to go on and I told him when we see each other again it will be very exciting and we will hug as long lost friends! That is the strange thing about this pilgrimage: you meet someone and talk for 20 minutes then the next time you see each other it is a real happening!  Last night, two days after I met him, I am going into a restaurant and I hear "Jerry, Jerry" and up comes Ian and we hug and greet each other as long lost friends!!!!
Enough for now. Helen and Karen want to decide where to stay tomorrow night!

Two days ago we walked from Leon to Villadango which was a 12.5 mile walk. After about 11 miles I really struggled.  We did not take a break for 4 hours and I just cannot do that. I need a break every two hours.  I finally could go no more and found a bench to sit on. Karen had taken a turn that Helen didn't see. She realized I was not behind her and turned around to see what was happening.  After a few minutes we started out, hoping to find the Hostel. We did not have the name which was a big mistake!!!  We were headed into one to see if Karen had checked in when a car came towards us and we could see Karen waving her hand out of the car!  Very happy to see her.  She had seen us across the street but couldn't get our attention.  The owner of the Albergue told Karen to get in the car and they came after us!  Had single rooms.  Very nice dinner but east down to eat at 7 and were served at 8:30!!! I was almost asleep
Today we decided to take a bus from Villadango to Astorga. Saw the cathedral and the Gaudi museum.  I had never heard of Gaudi, but learned he is te Spanish Frank Lloyd Wright.  Took many photos of Mary in the Cathedral.  It is amazing how prominent she is inSpanish churches.
Had lunch and then walked 6 miles to Santa Catalina.  We are in a hostel El Caminante.  Have a room for three with private bath!  We have been doing our laundry later but it is not drying. Yesterday I was using my backpack as a laundry line, hanging my compression underwear and socks!  You do what you have to do!  About to eat then to bed.  Tomorrow we walk six miles to a monastery where we averted with the monks.
Buen Camino!

We are in Leon at a nice little hotel.  Loving the city and have run into many of the pilgrims. Fun to catch up!  Happy to see Ietja and Marilyn from Holland and Grassi from Switzerland.  Found lunch at 1pm then went to the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  It was beautiful. Had a sculpture of Mary, pregnant with Jesus.  Don't think I have seen that before. Took photos.  Leaving the Cathedral we found the museums closed for siesta so returned to our rooms and took Siesta!  Might as well join in the local traditions!!!  Went to one of the museums then looked around for something to eat. But all the bars and cafes only serve alcohol, nuts, pastries.  No food until around 9pm.  Hard to stay up but we did and had a lovely roasted vegetable platter to share.
The young people are having a terrific time on the Camino.  It is like the United Nations of young people and we run into some of the same ones in the evenings. Last night several Italuan and Spanish men decided to have their heads shaved in the shape of an arrow. The Camino yellow arrow we use for direction.  I heard they were going to have their "arrows" died yellow but it hasn't happened yet!!!  We are sleeping in and leaving town at 8:30!!! Such a treat!
We will walk to a monastery and to a village where Mary was to have been.  Will read up on this to be sure.
We were wondering about Allen and Trish from New Zealand, Penelope and John from Tazmania. Did see Jim from Vancouver.  Our young friend, Stef, from CA has bad shins and had to fall out for a few days. Hope she is able to resume. Peggy from Australia is recovering in Leon tomorrow. She has bad blusters. Helen went to a podiatrist today and has tendinitis in one foot. Was given some ointment to put on.  She has had a lot of trouble with her feet. My blisters are healed but I may have a new one coming so taking care to prevent, if possible!!!
One of my cats, Ceci, is having some medical issues at home. My cat/house sitter had to take her to the gets. Sure hope they get her asthma under control. Although I am removed from home and family and friends and animals, I have hours while I am walking to think about everyone and everything!  Thank you for supporting me with notes on my journey. It means a lot to me!
Off to bed. Big day tomorrow. Buen Camino!!

Tonight we are at Alburgue Muni in Mansilla de las Mulas and I just had a shower with very cold water!  We do not usually stay in the municipal albergues but my friend Camille recommended it, so here we are!  We have met the owner, Laura, who is a character.  She is going to look at Helen's foot later. There is a massage therapist and we have all signed up for thirty minute massages, the cost of which is by donation!  Can't wait.
Today we walked 10 miles from Calzada de los Hermanillos to Reliegos, then taxied 5 miles to here.  Needed to be here to get beds.
The walk today was very difficult because it was along the old Roman road and the path was covered with stones and rocks, and very uneven.  There was no water, no food, no bench, nothing, absolutely nothing.  We thought we would make good time, but we just kept walking and walking and seemed to get nowhere!
Tomorrow we will go to Leon for a day of rest.  What is discouraging is starting out at the same time, or earlier as everyone and then falling behind, and we are walking what we think is a good pace.  So far we have met one 82 year old Frenchman and his 75 year old wife, another 71 year old man who says he is 70 because he says he likes to round his age down!, and a man who just turned 70 yesterday!  So, Helen and I are in a very small minority!!!!
Last night we heard that aman who started the day after us, died in Burgos on 15 Sept, the day after we left. We know we crossed paths with him but can't remember where. His children have written on the American Pilgrim site for stories about their dad.

Staying in a great Alburgue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos.  Dinner in 15 minutes and does it smell good!  Walked 12.5 miles today. Hit the halfway point at Sahagan. We were so very happy! Tomorrow we walk 15 miles, depending on the terrain.  In Leon in two days and maybe a free day!  Trying to be mindful of our time, but also need a break every 7 days or so.
Acoue of days ago we were in Carrion and stayed at Alburgue Santa Clara.  So nice went to lunch, ran into Ietja from Holland.  She walked with us the day before because her friend's husband joined her for a day of walking and they can walk so much faster.  We had fun with Ietja.  She is a marriage and family therapist!
After we ate we did laundry (always)! And then had a salad before going to vespers sung by the nuns.  Wonderful! Then I went to the pilgrims blessing and what a special treat. We had nuns playing the guitar and singing, father asked for countries to present themselves.  So many countries. First time I heard a Slovakian present.  It is amazing.  Then we each were personally blessed by Father or one of the sisters.  And, given a little paper star to represent Jesus being our star to guide us. Ended by singing a song to Mary.  Helen and Karen were upset they opted out.
Yesterday was a long walk.  Nurse Karen helped out a fellow pilgrim, Kevin from Galway, who has a really bad blister on the ball of one foot.  We also checked out a young girl who was really struggling with what seemed to be the flu. Terrible place to be sick.  By the 10th mile my shoulder was really acting up but made it to our wonderful, new Albergue with the chandelier in our room.  Had three beds, apples, bananas and water on side table.  The shower was sublime.
For those of you who are wondering about Mai Lara's treatment plan.  On 29 Sept she will have 6 weeks of chemo, then surgery followed by 6 to 16 weeks of chemo.  I will be with her on 11 October which I think will be a good time as it is three weeks into chemo.  I plan on returning for her surgery in mid November.  Please continue to pray for Mai Lara, and for Andy as he supports her.  They are doing well.  Thank you for your support!
The end of yesterday was really boring but today we were back to seeing some pretty landscape.
On to dinner with the other peregrines!  Buen Camino!

Not sure what was going on last night. I could wifi but not Internet.  In cafe today and Internet is working!  Absolutely wonderful place to stay.  Three bed room with no one 12 inches above us!  Even a little chandelier in our room.  Barkley from Vancouver and Kevin from Galway stayed in the other Alburgue in town and Karen read last night they were having a bedbug problem!  Yuk! Did 12.5 miles yesterday and it was boring so plenty of time for prayer and reflection!  Many memories.  Many good, some not so good.
Today we hit Sahugan. It is the geographical halfway mark!!!!  The Franciscan Monastery has a certificate. We are wondering how much the piece of paper weighs?!?!  Very important info.  My right shoulder and side of neck are really painful. Arthritis acting up.
Must be on our way.  Just had croissant and orange juice. So good. Everyone loves the coffee con leche but I am not much of a coffee drinker.  It is good.  I have it once in awhile.
Will try to catch up with last couple of days tonight.  BuenCamino!

Another day. A very good day.  We walked the Mesita which is a very long, flat area on the plains.  Some avoid because it is so "boring" with "no interest".   I wore my sandals and did not carry my pack because the arthritis in my neck and shoulder is really acting up.  I will not carry tomorrow, but will try to start again on Sunday. I was not burdened with physical infirmities ( a little Advil for my arthritis) so spent the day on the Mesita meditating on many things.  I thought about my mother a lot today. She died in 2007 and I miss her.  She would love to hear of my Camino adventure.  I do think she is with me though!!  I also thought of my wonderful children and in law children and grandchildren.  I thought of all my friends. And, I thought about my clients.  I thought, too, about my former husband and said a prayer for him.  And, I asked forgiveness for my failings.  Yes, I was deep in reflection for 12 miles, walking alone for most.
We arrived at our Alburgue Ultreya about 2, showered, washed clothes and looked ahead in our Brierly book about El Camino.  Tonight we had a lovely supper with a Spanish woman who lives in Switzerland.  She walking with a friend from Israel.
After supper we had a fascinating tout given by the owner, of the wine cellar under us. It is called a Bodaga.  Off to bed. Another day on the Mesita so who knows what will come to mind! Buen Camino!

Just sent a long note which I thought I had published last night.  I have a rip roaring cold with cough and runny nose.  I do not know when I last had a cold and most of you know that I always say colds are psychosomatic, so wondering why at this moment I am contending with this very ng inconvenience?  Must spend time figuring it out!!
Left Burgos, a beautiful city, this morning at 7.  Walked 12 miles to Hornillus, and got the last three beds at El Afar ( I think it is. In bed so can't check!).  Nice! Top bunk again. Very bad.  Have to bring my sandals up with me because the rungs on the lasers are so painful. Dread middle of the night runs to the bathroom.
Had a good nap. I have chills so might have a fever   Paella and salad for supper. Rey good but not too hungry.  Used washer and dryer. Took two hours to dry the clothes.  Think they have code see dryer like Mai Lara has in England.  I am so spoiled! Dinner with a couple from New Zealand, aman from England who voted for Braxis and two women from the Netherlands.  Talked a little about Trump.  He has not up in previous conversations and I was happy to get off politics in te USA!  Have no idea what is happening and feel fine about it!!
Will walk twelve tomorrow across re Mesita, a vast land of wide open space. A totally different terrain and one to just walk and open my heart and to take in whatever comes.  Hopefully I have dealt with the physical part of the journey and can move on to te next phase: emotional.  I do think the stages overlap as I have experienced closeness with my God which they say is phase three.  I also has an emotional day during phase one when I was into why, why, why.  We will see what te next few days bring!
BuenCamino

I can't believe I have not written since 9 September.  There were several days with no wifi available, and the last three have been very busy.  I will try to catch up with the past few days.
On Friday we left Logrono by headlamp. Once again it is so peaceful and quiet as we walk along, with other pilgrims doing the same.  We stopped in Navarette took photos of the magnificent church. Walking inside took my breath away.  I could only kneel in humble prayer to the Lord of our universe.
We left Navarette and walked in silence through grape vineyards where of course I had toda mole the grapes!  I do think they will make very good wine!  We walked over 15 miles today the checked into our Albergue and showered and did laundry.  The Albergue, La Penas, was only four days old!  The three of us we reserved our very own pilgrim meal which was delicious!
OnSaturdsy we walked 13 miles from Najera to Santa Domingo and were welcomed to te municipal Albergue.  It was delightful.  Very clean and spacious.  Our only complaint is that we seemed to be in the snorers room!  Very loud.  Earplugs did not help much.
On Sunday we walked 10 miles to Villaymayor.  Wanted to go to Granonbut no beds.  We were happy with our little Albergue.  Stopped early enough to sit in the back yard and talked to the other 20 or so pilgrims.  Met Barkley from England, John from Ireland and Jeannette from Denmark.  They formed their little threesome a ways back and were having fun together.  Also met Julie from CA who was making the Camino to mark her 50th birthday.  Very nice.  The scenery and the fabulous churches are beautiful, but somehow relationship with God has a lot to do with my communion with others along the way.  To hear their stories is always inspiring to me.  And every person, young or old,  has been friendly and helpful and kind.  We are truly in this adventure together: on the Caminoas in life

On to Belorado then to Tosantos where we saw caves carved into the side of the mountain. On to Villafranco where we stayed at the AntonAbad Albergue.  Very nice.  Had dinner with Scott, an Episcopal priest who is the COO of the Epuscopal Diocese of Baltimore and knows Karen's daughter in law Autumn, who sings solos in the Episcopal Church in Baltimore!  Small world!
We were pretty scared to leaveVillofrancobecausecwe had heard how difficult the two mountain tops were that we had to climb.  By the way, one of our favorite people, Maggie from Australiabunked with us her friend had bowed out at the last minute and when we first met her she was traveling solo. When we saw her here she had joined two other women from Australia.   All so nice.
We all had to sleep in top bunk. Not fun.  Was Helens first time and she wore her sandals toned to get up and down in te night the rungs of the ladders are tortuous!
So, we started out before light and went straight uphill for at least 45 minutes, but I did it without stopping every 10 feet!  It was up and down for awhile and I think I was OK because I could not see for the first hour or so!  It didn't seem as bad as I thought!
Went to Ages, a beautiful little eating place. The owner was full of ice and eager to please!  Had great fun. Ran into Michael from Germany who is just too adorable. He must've all of 28! He was traveling with a new friend fromDenmark.  Of course they communicate in English which is the universal language.  I did tell someone I felt guilty that I could not communicate and he said it is a pity.  I agree, but it is not like we live close to other languages in the US.  I guess I should at least learn some Spanish.  It is interesting that I failed a course in French in college and struggled with it when we lived in Belgium, but I am coming up with all kinds of French words here.  It is amazing. I had no idea I knew so much French!!!
We were exclaiming about the perfect day with perfect food and walk and weather.  Started walking to Atapuerta where we were interested in seeing the excavation site where earliest man has been found.  Five minutes out of Ages, a ravaging storm descended upon us.   Hail, blustery wind, cold, rain: you name it.  We were absolutely drenched when we reached Atapuerca. Have never walked in shoes where my feet were sloshing in water in my boots.  We sought refugee in the first place we saw which was an albuergue.  We were looking around for a taxi phone number when an angel appeared! A young Italian man sitting on a bench told us he was waiting for a taxi to Burgos and would be happy for us to join him!!!
We were dropped off at a hotel recommended.  No space.  Sent us to Hotel Jacobean, which was absolutely horrible.  No window in our room, in the basement, no pictures, difficult to get in the shower.  So bad.  We were drenched so showered, came to our senses and decided to get a refund for night two and stay at an ice hotel for our free day. We moved yesterday to HotelEl Cid with a wonderful view of the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  Had a nice lunch if Castilian Soup(bread, egg, meat Beth of some kind. Tasty. Different!  Went to Cathedral which was exquisite. Then we had made foot massage Appts. Usually you would think 45 minutes and done.  For two hours they had us in different rooms administering a massage, tens pulsation and ultrasound. It was really weird. After two hours, Karen took off the tens apparatus and announced that we had to leave. After another 20 minutes working on my blisters we walked of there: too late to go to the Evolutionary Museum or to return to the church.  We did get to the Post Office to pick up our boxes sent from Lagrono. And we packed another box to sent to Santiago where we will end. My pack is still too heavy
To bed! Buen Camino!

Would love to post photos but don't know how to post from my photos on Windows to blogger.  If anyone can give me step by step instructions I would be most appreciative had to delete my google photos before I left home as it was using too much data on my iPhone.
Left Lagrono at 6:15 and walked 15 miles!  We were making good time until the last hour or so then my blisters really started otheing me I have one on the side of my heal and a large one on the inside of my big toe.  Painful! I have applied Benjoin and will do so again in the morning.
We arrived in Najera and found a four day old hostel on the way out so we are ready to go in the AM!   Had a lovely dinner of pork, salad and wine!  We had showers and washed out clothes.  Afraid they wouldn't dry in our hotel room so did not do laundry now a day behind with no clean clothes.  Going commando tonight! Eating my hiking pants to bed. Bad news!
In Navarette we went to see Our Lady of the Assumption. It was so powerful. Really breathtaking.  I I could only sit and listen to the music and try to take in the beauty of the Blessed Virgin and Jesus represented in so many different statues.  I so wish I could have taken pictures that would depict the beauty.
Walked through vineyards and olive groves.  Hope all is well in the states. So far removed from the news. Thank goodness!  BUEN CAMINO!

Had a great free day in Logrono.  Ready to hit The Way tomorrow, with duck tape on the ball of my feet and soles of my feet, and moleskin with two toe sleeves on my toes!!  Bradley had told me about Benzoin and I brought some with me which has been great.
we left Maneru we went to Estella and stayed at a Capuchin monastery where we stayed in a three person room and saw Michelle from Germany and two couples we met from New Zealand.  Fun to exchange stories!  For supper one of the dessert choices they had translated into English as "a mess of fruit".  Delicious fruit cocktail.
Yesterday walked from Estella to Los Arcos (for those following with a map).  It looked like a run down western town and was very disappointing.  Karen had gone ahead to secure our beds.  She walked into this grungy place: Camino Albergi, and behind the counter was a young girl with a tshirt:   "f... Yourself".  Our bags had been sent there so a slight problem.
Had beer and pasta in the town square. Ran into Mikela from Germany, John from CA and Michael from Germany.  Great time.  We tried a couple other albergues but no luck.  Mikela, John and Michael had to sleep in a mans yard the night before.  Very difficult getting beds.  The three of us decided to taxi forward to Logrono.  We were sorry to skip Viana but need to be reasonable.  We are working as hard as the young folks ( those under 60!) but we just keep up!
Our next break is in Burgos in7 days.  We have advanced 100 miles, walking 80. Hope to do better in the next stage. It is very hard. It does help when we send packs forward.  Today we each sent a box ahead to Burgos.  We have to lighten our pack and some things we figure we won't need until it gets cooler.
Off to bed. Early morning. Buen Camino!!!

Back in action!  A free day in Logronos and we are ready to get back on track!!

We are taking a zero day tomorrow and have settled into a real hotel with real beds and unlimited hot water and air conditioning and real restaurants with salads!  And the most amazing part is that the light stays on while we are using the toilet!  Sitting on the toilet with seconds to go before the light goes out and it is pitch black and you don't know where the toilet paper is and the only way to turn the light back on is to walk to the door on the opposite side of the room and wave your hand over the switch is NOT fun!

Left the wonderful Camino del Perdin Albergue in Uterga at 6:50 this morning. Used our headlamps and I enjoyed the quiet and watching the sun come up. So beautiful.  I didn't tell you we reached one of the highlights so far: Alto del Perdon which is a wrought iron representative of medieval pilgrims. Getting up there was so strenuous that I felt like I was doing penance for all my sins. By the time I arrived I was in tears. Not sure if my tears were a physical release or emotional!  This is hard work!! Going down the mountain is so hard on legs and feet. Karen went ahead to secure our reservations.  Helen and I practically crawled the last few minutes!  We saw Jathy, a woman we met at the Convent of theTrinidad the night before. 

Today we went through Puente La Reina with a beautiful Romanesque church,Iglesias del Crucifijo and the pilgrim bridge, Puente La Reina, that was built to accommodate the pilgrims passing through in medieval times. 

Oh, before this we took a 2.6 km detour to see one of the "jewels of the Camino". A twelfth century Romanesque church.  No more detours for me!  Beautiful church but we have enough miles to walk and enough sites to see without taking detours!!!!  

So hot! Arrived in Maneru at 1:30 and decided to stop. Staying in a three month old Albergue: El Contero which means stone mason and named after the host who is a stone mason. Quite a place with unlimited hot water and beer and a delicious salad!  What more can a pilgrim desire?!  

I do happen to have a pilgrim above me who is from Mexico, loves the NY Yankees, and, has asked me my marital status, age and, my favorite baseball team! Told him if he snores I am kicking his mattress!

One of the pilgrims stopped for ham and cheese sandwich. She asked for mustard and the owner went to his home to get it for her!   Going to do my laundry and to purchase food for breakfast since we will be leaving early.  Buen Camino!

How in the world could I have forgotten to tell you about a wonderful moment today. We were walking around Pamplona with backpacks and poles. All of a sudden I heard angelic voices coming from a very old church in the old town. Karen, Helen and I stopped and listened for a few minutes the followed the singing into a very small chapel with about 15 sisters singing beautiful songs. We went in and sat in the ack and just listened.  So very beautiful.  The chapel only had infant photos of Jesus and over te altar was Mary. And on the side was a beautiful statue of Mary!  We were a little taken aback with the beauty, simplicity.
These are the moments I will cherish!

It is 6:30 and I am resting.  Not even sure I can make it to the pilgrims meal because I am absolutely, totally exhausted!  Have not seen more than a couple who are Helen and my ages. The young pilgrims are passing us at every turn.  Today was very hot and once again we went up, really up, for miles and then we had to go straight down on loose stones.  Very scary.

At the moment we have a Spanish speaking woman getting reservations about 10 miles away for tomorrow.  I didn't think we would need reservations but we surely do.  Makes it difficult because we are not sure how far we want to walk.  We had reservations for tonight but had to be here by three.  Karen went ahead or we would have had to relinquish our spots arrived 15 minutes late. 

Once more I am sleeping above an Italian man.   Getting in and out of top bunk is difficult.  Especially with no ladder!!

Helens friend gave her a plaque: walk, sleep, eat, repeat!!!! That's about it. I hope it starts to be fun! So far it has been grueling. They say the first third is about physical, second half emotional and the third spiritual.  We will see.  

Meeting very nice people from Australia, New Zealand , Scandinavia, lots from California, Canada, Italy, France, Russia and so on.  Most everyone speaks English which always makes me feel slightly guilty since I can't speak anything but English!
By the way. In Uterga tonight.  Went through Pamplona today. 

They have the Running of the Bulls every year which is a very big thing. At the parties before the event people spray each other with red paint. Saw the stadium where the bull fights are held. Reminded me of going to a bullfight in Torremelinos where I looked at the ground in front of me the entire evening!!
Today we started at 6:30 with headlamps. Hope to do the same tomorrow except I have a man next to me in the upper bunk( separated by a one inch board) who is from Hungary and SNORED like a bullfrog during his nap!  He is in the bunk above Helen!  Good luck!!!

Arrived in Roncevalles today at 3:30 after 7 hours of hard walking.  Stood in line for a bed. At 5:30 I was assigned bed 30 which is a top bunk!!! Should be interesting about 3AM.  Actually it should be interesting in about 20 minutes when I go to bed!  I did splurge and pay for laundry since nothing dried last night and I had to put on wet clothes. Not fun.
Had I internet last night or the night before.  The places we are staying want us to be in the moment and connect with other pilgrims.  Good idea and it works!
I was in a panic all the way straight up the Pyrenees to Orisson because Helens name was not on the receipt and I was afraid I had only one reservation.  I was actually planning on sleeping outside somewhere.  But I did in fact have two reservations in my name. So all was good.  Yesterday was supposedly the hardest day but today was twice as long and very up and down.  I mean straight up, and straight down.  I carried my pack yesterday but wimped out and sent my pack forward today. Glad I did!
Tomorrow we walk 10 miles from Roncevalles to Zibiri.  No place reserved.  Lots of pilgrims. So far Helen and I are the oldest!!!
Breakfasts so far consist of coffee and bread and butter/jelly.  Not very filling and since I don't care for coffee on a regular basis I think I am in trouble!
Off to bed. Vegas trying to figure out how to download a photo but no luck. Will keep trying! Weather beautiful, feet sore, people very friendly and supportive. Buen Camino

      Buen Camino!  I am in St Jean and I am loving every minute. I have met so many new people and this French city takes me back to my days traveling France when living in Belgium in the 80's!  Helen and I just keep saying "Is this a dream"?  "Are we really seeing these flowers and buildings and mountains?  Are we really hearing people speak French"?  It is true. I am a Europhile to be sure!
    We departed Dulles a half hour late, but arrived in Madrid on time.  Picked up our poles from baggage (some took poles on board the plane which we were told we could NOT!!) and took a bus to the Alsa busline.  One bus ride for 3 hours and another for 2, and we ended up in Pamplona.  Istvar (our Hungarian host) picked us up and drove us another 45 minutes around curves and more curves, ending up at his Hostel.  At 7 we had a delightful family dinner with another American from California: Stefanie, and three Germans.  After we shared 5 bottles of wine, we slept VERY well!  Actually the wine is very young and therefore, very low alcohol content!
     This morning we had breakfast at 7AM and Istvar drove us to St Jean.  Great deal.  Have been here all day and have met many Americans, mostly  from the West Coast!   At 2:30, Joseph welcomed us to our home for tonight: Beilari. We are sharing a room with Stefanie, will go to 7PM Mass where we will have a blessing for our walk, then supper at 7:30!  By the way, last night we stayed in Curozon Puro: Pure Heart!  Love it.  Will be in touch.

ALMOST READY!

I think I am ready to go! Amazon Prime has been my evening entertainment!  I order something one night, then the item arrives and I find out it is the wrong size, color, or weight, so I go back to Amazon Prime to get the return label and start all over again!  Helen, Karen and I had "show and tell" with our backpacks last Friday. Then we went for our final shopping trip to REI, and to eat Tapas at a Spanish restaurant in Reston!  It was very, very hot, but we ate outside to get acclimated to the idea of no air conditioning!  My backpack was the heaviest and today I repacked, taking out several items I thought at one time, I could not live without.  I do not want to carry more than 14 to 16 lbs.  Getting close!!

Helen still cannot walk with her stress fracture, but she is going to the pool daily and will soon resume walking.  Karen and I have hiked many parts of the Appalachian Trail and we are now gradually winding down.  I think we are as ready as we will ever be and I know that no matter how much we prepare we will still be preparing during the first few days of our hike.

I believe I started MY Camino the day I said Yes to walking The Way (as it is called).  Talking to those who have preceded us, gathering our equipment, training without our packs and with our packs on pavement and hills and in the sun and the rain: Yes, we have begun the journey.  My cat sitter was over last week end and she is ready to take care of Ranger and CiCi in my absence.  Not only have I prepared myself physically, but emotionally and spiritually as well.  I have prayed for strength and for healing. I have downloaded Laudate to follow the Spanish Liturgies in English, and the Confession App to meditate on while walking.  I have downloaded a couple of spiritual audio books for the long, boring parts of the trail.  I also have Josh Groban and Bocelli and some Country and Gospel songs!

Everyone tells me it is MY Camino and I must walk it MY way.  I am open to see what El Camino has in store for me!  The three of us agree that we do not want to encroach on each other's pilgrimage. Sometimes we will be together and I am sure sometimes we will walk alone. I am excited and a little scared, but not too scared!!!

As for Mai Lara, we are waiting for the results from the second colonoscopy.  I am hopeful all will be well.  I will be flying straight to England to be with her and Andy on 11 October.  Of course all is subject to change, but those are the plans for now!

At the moment, I am excited because my son, Bradley, returns to Fort Hood to his family on 23 August, after a year in Kuwait.  I will be happy when he is home!  I will have to wait to see him after I return, but knowing he is in the USA with Alicia, Peyton, Cameron, Taylor and Sadie (the dog!) is good enough for now.

Buen Camino

Today is Tuesday, 2 August. 

      I have just been working on my template and trying to learn more about this site.

      I have not mentioned why I am walking the Camino. Years ago, our book group, Pages and Sages, read a book about El Camino by Shirley MacLaine.  El Camino De Santiago (the way of St James) sounded like a neat thing to do.  Through the years I have met people who have walked it and everyone had a unique, yet personally rewarding experience.  I started reading books about the Camino.  I thought one day it might be interesting to walk it for several reasons. One reason being I thought I could do it.  I thought I was mentally, spiritually and physically able to do it.  At 71 I am in excellent health and maybe I just want to give thanks for this fact. And, after all, everyone can walk!  I am not a great athlete and just dabble in golf, and tennis and pickleball and other sports, but to walk 500 miles seemed like a doable challenge.  Also, I love traveling and having spent several years living in Europe: in Germany as a child and in Belgium as an adult.  I love the international environment.  I love diversity.  I love learning about people and places. And, I am open to experiencing new adventures.  

      So when Helen and I were walking to the Capitol to get a glimpse of the Pope in October, 2015, it all came together when I asked what plans she had for the new year and she said she would like to make a pilgrimage and at the same time, we said, are you familiar with the Camino!  Then we were standing on the lawn of the Capitol and a young student had a sweatshirt on that said El Camino de Santiago! After talking to her, we turned to the couple on the other side and the woman said that her husband, who was standing right there, had walked the Camino with his brothers!  If we were looking for confirmation, there it was!!!!

     I do want to add that my statement that "anyone can walk" was a little naive!  I can walk, but this

is a whole new ballgame!  This is hiking.  And hiking means going uphill and downhill, over rocks and tree branches, for miles and miles and miles!  It is hard work. Yes, I was very naive!!  Off to bed because I am walking 6 miles with Karen at 7AM.  Buen Camino!

      

Just testing to see if I can write from my iPhone!

Jerry's Journey: El Camino De Santiago

To my family and friends, In the fall of 2015, my friend Helen and I decided we would walk  El Camino De Santiago (The Way of St James) "next year". Well next year is here and we, along with another friend, Karen, will soon be walking El Camino!  I can hardly believe it.  I am very excited and, a little fearful, The task of walking 500 miles at age 71 is a little crazy for someone who is not a hiker, and has done more sitting than exercising in the past few years.  But, since February, I have been gathering my supplies, working out at the gym, and walking. I have walked around Carlisle,   hiked a little in Vail, Colorado and on many parts of the PA Appalachian Trail.  In the beginning I walked without a backpack, and in the last couple of months I have been on the AT with both backpack and trekking poles.  Yesterday I walked 10.5 miles, and at the end wondered if I could really walk this far and farther for up to 45 days in a row!  What was I ever thinking???

During these past months, I have struggled with getting the proper shoes for my arthritic feet.  While most are walking in Solomons or Keens or some other popular hiking shoe, I am walking in Xelero orthopedic hiking boots, with orthotics!  Besides my feet, I have also discovered I have arthritis in my neck and shoulders.  So far, my knees are holding up!  I have vowed to not carry more than 14 lbs in my pack, which seems heavy enough on most days!  A week ago Helen was diagnosed with a stress fracture in her foot and is now in a boot.  She is having laser treatments and WILL be on the trail. Her podiatrist has suggested she take her boot!  Yes, this has already proven to be an interesting adventure.  It is a good thing Karen is quite a bit younger and in a whole lot better shape.  She will keep us going!

The first two days on the Camino are very strenuous. It was highly recommended that we make reservations at a hostel (albergue or refugio) in Orisson . So on 1 September, after hiking 6 miles straight up the Pyrenees, we know we will have a place to stay.  After that we will just walk and hope to find a place at the end of our hike. The goal is to walk from 6 AM to 1 PM daily. I know some days will be longer and some shorter. 

Many men and women have been supporting me in many different ways.  I took an ultralight backpacking class at Carlisle Barracks and met Bruce.  Bruce heads the recreation center and he and Sue, his parttime worker, have been so very encouraging.  They have taken us on the trails and have been so, so patient as we struggled with the hills.  In early May, I went with them on a three day hike. It was the most difficult physical thing I have ever done and Bruce stayed back with me the entire time.  He and Sue believed in me before I believed in me!  My friend, Kathy, showed me all her supplies and took me shopping at the outlets for my gear.  She has hiked with me and cheered me on when I wondered if I could do it.  Kathy walked the Camino 18 months ago.  Camille gives me all kinds of tips whenever I see her.  She walked the Camino a couple of years ago. Father Forrey, the pastor at St Patricks where Karen and I attend, gave us a blessing when Helen came up to visit.   And there are others who have been cheering us on.  My daughter, Mai Lara, sent me a solar battery charger and a bottle container to add to my pack!  Others have offered love, words of encouragement and support.  Thank you!

We have allowed 45 days which is about ten days longer than suggested, but we are taking into consideration our age!!!  For the past two weeks I was not sure I could even go on the Camino.  My daughter, Mai Lara had a colonoscopy and she has a tumor in her colon.  After a very frightening two weeks, we learned that it has not spread.  At 43, she is very young to have colon cancer.  That it has not spread is a blessing and I am so very thankful.  The samples they biopsied showed the tumor to be benign, but the doctors are quite sure it is malignant so they are doing another colonoscopy.  Either way it has to come out and I am waiting to find out the timing of treatment so I can make final plans.  I will either leave early and stay with them a week, fly to Madrid and meet Helen and Karen, walk the Camino and then return to England, or, just go at the end.  Of course if I need to, I will cancel, or leave in the middle for awhile.  I do feel confident I will be able to walk it, which I did not for awhile.  I continue to hike! And, I continue to pray for Mai Lara.  I ask you to do the same.  Thanks!

I am starting this blog to see if I can figure out how to use it and how to introduce it to you all.  I am not sure how usable it will be on the Camino, but Camille had a blog and I will check with her for more assistance.  We shall see over the next couple of weeks!  Buen Camino!!