I can't believe I have not written since 9 September.  There were several days with no wifi available, and the last three have been very busy.  I will try to catch up with the past few days.
On Friday we left Logrono by headlamp. Once again it is so peaceful and quiet as we walk along, with other pilgrims doing the same.  We stopped in Navarette took photos of the magnificent church. Walking inside took my breath away.  I could only kneel in humble prayer to the Lord of our universe.
We left Navarette and walked in silence through grape vineyards where of course I had toda mole the grapes!  I do think they will make very good wine!  We walked over 15 miles today the checked into our Albergue and showered and did laundry.  The Albergue, La Penas, was only four days old!  The three of us we reserved our very own pilgrim meal which was delicious!
OnSaturdsy we walked 13 miles from Najera to Santa Domingo and were welcomed to te municipal Albergue.  It was delightful.  Very clean and spacious.  Our only complaint is that we seemed to be in the snorers room!  Very loud.  Earplugs did not help much.
On Sunday we walked 10 miles to Villaymayor.  Wanted to go to Granonbut no beds.  We were happy with our little Albergue.  Stopped early enough to sit in the back yard and talked to the other 20 or so pilgrims.  Met Barkley from England, John from Ireland and Jeannette from Denmark.  They formed their little threesome a ways back and were having fun together.  Also met Julie from CA who was making the Camino to mark her 50th birthday.  Very nice.  The scenery and the fabulous churches are beautiful, but somehow relationship with God has a lot to do with my communion with others along the way.  To hear their stories is always inspiring to me.  And every person, young or old,  has been friendly and helpful and kind.  We are truly in this adventure together: on the Caminoas in life

On to Belorado then to Tosantos where we saw caves carved into the side of the mountain. On to Villafranco where we stayed at the AntonAbad Albergue.  Very nice.  Had dinner with Scott, an Episcopal priest who is the COO of the Epuscopal Diocese of Baltimore and knows Karen's daughter in law Autumn, who sings solos in the Episcopal Church in Baltimore!  Small world!
We were pretty scared to leaveVillofrancobecausecwe had heard how difficult the two mountain tops were that we had to climb.  By the way, one of our favorite people, Maggie from Australiabunked with us her friend had bowed out at the last minute and when we first met her she was traveling solo. When we saw her here she had joined two other women from Australia.   All so nice.
We all had to sleep in top bunk. Not fun.  Was Helens first time and she wore her sandals toned to get up and down in te night the rungs of the ladders are tortuous!
So, we started out before light and went straight uphill for at least 45 minutes, but I did it without stopping every 10 feet!  It was up and down for awhile and I think I was OK because I could not see for the first hour or so!  It didn't seem as bad as I thought!
Went to Ages, a beautiful little eating place. The owner was full of ice and eager to please!  Had great fun. Ran into Michael from Germany who is just too adorable. He must've all of 28! He was traveling with a new friend fromDenmark.  Of course they communicate in English which is the universal language.  I did tell someone I felt guilty that I could not communicate and he said it is a pity.  I agree, but it is not like we live close to other languages in the US.  I guess I should at least learn some Spanish.  It is interesting that I failed a course in French in college and struggled with it when we lived in Belgium, but I am coming up with all kinds of French words here.  It is amazing. I had no idea I knew so much French!!!
We were exclaiming about the perfect day with perfect food and walk and weather.  Started walking to Atapuerta where we were interested in seeing the excavation site where earliest man has been found.  Five minutes out of Ages, a ravaging storm descended upon us.   Hail, blustery wind, cold, rain: you name it.  We were absolutely drenched when we reached Atapuerca. Have never walked in shoes where my feet were sloshing in water in my boots.  We sought refugee in the first place we saw which was an albuergue.  We were looking around for a taxi phone number when an angel appeared! A young Italian man sitting on a bench told us he was waiting for a taxi to Burgos and would be happy for us to join him!!!
We were dropped off at a hotel recommended.  No space.  Sent us to Hotel Jacobean, which was absolutely horrible.  No window in our room, in the basement, no pictures, difficult to get in the shower.  So bad.  We were drenched so showered, came to our senses and decided to get a refund for night two and stay at an ice hotel for our free day. We moved yesterday to HotelEl Cid with a wonderful view of the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  Had a nice lunch if Castilian Soup(bread, egg, meat Beth of some kind. Tasty. Different!  Went to Cathedral which was exquisite. Then we had made foot massage Appts. Usually you would think 45 minutes and done.  For two hours they had us in different rooms administering a massage, tens pulsation and ultrasound. It was really weird. After two hours, Karen took off the tens apparatus and announced that we had to leave. After another 20 minutes working on my blisters we walked of there: too late to go to the Evolutionary Museum or to return to the church.  We did get to the Post Office to pick up our boxes sent from Lagrono. And we packed another box to sent to Santiago where we will end. My pack is still too heavy
To bed! Buen Camino!