Two days ago we walked from Leon to Villadango which was a 12.5 mile walk. After about 11 miles I really struggled.  We did not take a break for 4 hours and I just cannot do that. I need a break every two hours.  I finally could go no more and found a bench to sit on. Karen had taken a turn that Helen didn't see. She realized I was not behind her and turned around to see what was happening.  After a few minutes we started out, hoping to find the Hostel. We did not have the name which was a big mistake!!!  We were headed into one to see if Karen had checked in when a car came towards us and we could see Karen waving her hand out of the car!  Very happy to see her.  She had seen us across the street but couldn't get our attention.  The owner of the Albergue told Karen to get in the car and they came after us!  Had single rooms.  Very nice dinner but east down to eat at 7 and were served at 8:30!!! I was almost asleep
Today we decided to take a bus from Villadango to Astorga. Saw the cathedral and the Gaudi museum.  I had never heard of Gaudi, but learned he is te Spanish Frank Lloyd Wright.  Took many photos of Mary in the Cathedral.  It is amazing how prominent she is inSpanish churches.
Had lunch and then walked 6 miles to Santa Catalina.  We are in a hostel El Caminante.  Have a room for three with private bath!  We have been doing our laundry later but it is not drying. Yesterday I was using my backpack as a laundry line, hanging my compression underwear and socks!  You do what you have to do!  About to eat then to bed.  Tomorrow we walk six miles to a monastery where we averted with the monks.
Buen Camino!

We are in Leon at a nice little hotel.  Loving the city and have run into many of the pilgrims. Fun to catch up!  Happy to see Ietja and Marilyn from Holland and Grassi from Switzerland.  Found lunch at 1pm then went to the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  It was beautiful. Had a sculpture of Mary, pregnant with Jesus.  Don't think I have seen that before. Took photos.  Leaving the Cathedral we found the museums closed for siesta so returned to our rooms and took Siesta!  Might as well join in the local traditions!!!  Went to one of the museums then looked around for something to eat. But all the bars and cafes only serve alcohol, nuts, pastries.  No food until around 9pm.  Hard to stay up but we did and had a lovely roasted vegetable platter to share.
The young people are having a terrific time on the Camino.  It is like the United Nations of young people and we run into some of the same ones in the evenings. Last night several Italuan and Spanish men decided to have their heads shaved in the shape of an arrow. The Camino yellow arrow we use for direction.  I heard they were going to have their "arrows" died yellow but it hasn't happened yet!!!  We are sleeping in and leaving town at 8:30!!! Such a treat!
We will walk to a monastery and to a village where Mary was to have been.  Will read up on this to be sure.
We were wondering about Allen and Trish from New Zealand, Penelope and John from Tazmania. Did see Jim from Vancouver.  Our young friend, Stef, from CA has bad shins and had to fall out for a few days. Hope she is able to resume. Peggy from Australia is recovering in Leon tomorrow. She has bad blusters. Helen went to a podiatrist today and has tendinitis in one foot. Was given some ointment to put on.  She has had a lot of trouble with her feet. My blisters are healed but I may have a new one coming so taking care to prevent, if possible!!!
One of my cats, Ceci, is having some medical issues at home. My cat/house sitter had to take her to the gets. Sure hope they get her asthma under control. Although I am removed from home and family and friends and animals, I have hours while I am walking to think about everyone and everything!  Thank you for supporting me with notes on my journey. It means a lot to me!
Off to bed. Big day tomorrow. Buen Camino!!

Tonight we are at Alburgue Muni in Mansilla de las Mulas and I just had a shower with very cold water!  We do not usually stay in the municipal albergues but my friend Camille recommended it, so here we are!  We have met the owner, Laura, who is a character.  She is going to look at Helen's foot later. There is a massage therapist and we have all signed up for thirty minute massages, the cost of which is by donation!  Can't wait.
Today we walked 10 miles from Calzada de los Hermanillos to Reliegos, then taxied 5 miles to here.  Needed to be here to get beds.
The walk today was very difficult because it was along the old Roman road and the path was covered with stones and rocks, and very uneven.  There was no water, no food, no bench, nothing, absolutely nothing.  We thought we would make good time, but we just kept walking and walking and seemed to get nowhere!
Tomorrow we will go to Leon for a day of rest.  What is discouraging is starting out at the same time, or earlier as everyone and then falling behind, and we are walking what we think is a good pace.  So far we have met one 82 year old Frenchman and his 75 year old wife, another 71 year old man who says he is 70 because he says he likes to round his age down!, and a man who just turned 70 yesterday!  So, Helen and I are in a very small minority!!!!
Last night we heard that aman who started the day after us, died in Burgos on 15 Sept, the day after we left. We know we crossed paths with him but can't remember where. His children have written on the American Pilgrim site for stories about their dad.

Staying in a great Alburgue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos.  Dinner in 15 minutes and does it smell good!  Walked 12.5 miles today. Hit the halfway point at Sahagan. We were so very happy! Tomorrow we walk 15 miles, depending on the terrain.  In Leon in two days and maybe a free day!  Trying to be mindful of our time, but also need a break every 7 days or so.
Acoue of days ago we were in Carrion and stayed at Alburgue Santa Clara.  So nice went to lunch, ran into Ietja from Holland.  She walked with us the day before because her friend's husband joined her for a day of walking and they can walk so much faster.  We had fun with Ietja.  She is a marriage and family therapist!
After we ate we did laundry (always)! And then had a salad before going to vespers sung by the nuns.  Wonderful! Then I went to the pilgrims blessing and what a special treat. We had nuns playing the guitar and singing, father asked for countries to present themselves.  So many countries. First time I heard a Slovakian present.  It is amazing.  Then we each were personally blessed by Father or one of the sisters.  And, given a little paper star to represent Jesus being our star to guide us. Ended by singing a song to Mary.  Helen and Karen were upset they opted out.
Yesterday was a long walk.  Nurse Karen helped out a fellow pilgrim, Kevin from Galway, who has a really bad blister on the ball of one foot.  We also checked out a young girl who was really struggling with what seemed to be the flu. Terrible place to be sick.  By the 10th mile my shoulder was really acting up but made it to our wonderful, new Albergue with the chandelier in our room.  Had three beds, apples, bananas and water on side table.  The shower was sublime.
For those of you who are wondering about Mai Lara's treatment plan.  On 29 Sept she will have 6 weeks of chemo, then surgery followed by 6 to 16 weeks of chemo.  I will be with her on 11 October which I think will be a good time as it is three weeks into chemo.  I plan on returning for her surgery in mid November.  Please continue to pray for Mai Lara, and for Andy as he supports her.  They are doing well.  Thank you for your support!
The end of yesterday was really boring but today we were back to seeing some pretty landscape.
On to dinner with the other peregrines!  Buen Camino!

Not sure what was going on last night. I could wifi but not Internet.  In cafe today and Internet is working!  Absolutely wonderful place to stay.  Three bed room with no one 12 inches above us!  Even a little chandelier in our room.  Barkley from Vancouver and Kevin from Galway stayed in the other Alburgue in town and Karen read last night they were having a bedbug problem!  Yuk! Did 12.5 miles yesterday and it was boring so plenty of time for prayer and reflection!  Many memories.  Many good, some not so good.
Today we hit Sahugan. It is the geographical halfway mark!!!!  The Franciscan Monastery has a certificate. We are wondering how much the piece of paper weighs?!?!  Very important info.  My right shoulder and side of neck are really painful. Arthritis acting up.
Must be on our way.  Just had croissant and orange juice. So good. Everyone loves the coffee con leche but I am not much of a coffee drinker.  It is good.  I have it once in awhile.
Will try to catch up with last couple of days tonight.  BuenCamino!

Another day. A very good day.  We walked the Mesita which is a very long, flat area on the plains.  Some avoid because it is so "boring" with "no interest".   I wore my sandals and did not carry my pack because the arthritis in my neck and shoulder is really acting up.  I will not carry tomorrow, but will try to start again on Sunday. I was not burdened with physical infirmities ( a little Advil for my arthritis) so spent the day on the Mesita meditating on many things.  I thought about my mother a lot today. She died in 2007 and I miss her.  She would love to hear of my Camino adventure.  I do think she is with me though!!  I also thought of my wonderful children and in law children and grandchildren.  I thought of all my friends. And, I thought about my clients.  I thought, too, about my former husband and said a prayer for him.  And, I asked forgiveness for my failings.  Yes, I was deep in reflection for 12 miles, walking alone for most.
We arrived at our Alburgue Ultreya about 2, showered, washed clothes and looked ahead in our Brierly book about El Camino.  Tonight we had a lovely supper with a Spanish woman who lives in Switzerland.  She walking with a friend from Israel.
After supper we had a fascinating tout given by the owner, of the wine cellar under us. It is called a Bodaga.  Off to bed. Another day on the Mesita so who knows what will come to mind! Buen Camino!

Just sent a long note which I thought I had published last night.  I have a rip roaring cold with cough and runny nose.  I do not know when I last had a cold and most of you know that I always say colds are psychosomatic, so wondering why at this moment I am contending with this very ng inconvenience?  Must spend time figuring it out!!
Left Burgos, a beautiful city, this morning at 7.  Walked 12 miles to Hornillus, and got the last three beds at El Afar ( I think it is. In bed so can't check!).  Nice! Top bunk again. Very bad.  Have to bring my sandals up with me because the rungs on the lasers are so painful. Dread middle of the night runs to the bathroom.
Had a good nap. I have chills so might have a fever   Paella and salad for supper. Rey good but not too hungry.  Used washer and dryer. Took two hours to dry the clothes.  Think they have code see dryer like Mai Lara has in England.  I am so spoiled! Dinner with a couple from New Zealand, aman from England who voted for Braxis and two women from the Netherlands.  Talked a little about Trump.  He has not up in previous conversations and I was happy to get off politics in te USA!  Have no idea what is happening and feel fine about it!!
Will walk twelve tomorrow across re Mesita, a vast land of wide open space. A totally different terrain and one to just walk and open my heart and to take in whatever comes.  Hopefully I have dealt with the physical part of the journey and can move on to te next phase: emotional.  I do think the stages overlap as I have experienced closeness with my God which they say is phase three.  I also has an emotional day during phase one when I was into why, why, why.  We will see what te next few days bring!
BuenCamino

I can't believe I have not written since 9 September.  There were several days with no wifi available, and the last three have been very busy.  I will try to catch up with the past few days.
On Friday we left Logrono by headlamp. Once again it is so peaceful and quiet as we walk along, with other pilgrims doing the same.  We stopped in Navarette took photos of the magnificent church. Walking inside took my breath away.  I could only kneel in humble prayer to the Lord of our universe.
We left Navarette and walked in silence through grape vineyards where of course I had toda mole the grapes!  I do think they will make very good wine!  We walked over 15 miles today the checked into our Albergue and showered and did laundry.  The Albergue, La Penas, was only four days old!  The three of us we reserved our very own pilgrim meal which was delicious!
OnSaturdsy we walked 13 miles from Najera to Santa Domingo and were welcomed to te municipal Albergue.  It was delightful.  Very clean and spacious.  Our only complaint is that we seemed to be in the snorers room!  Very loud.  Earplugs did not help much.
On Sunday we walked 10 miles to Villaymayor.  Wanted to go to Granonbut no beds.  We were happy with our little Albergue.  Stopped early enough to sit in the back yard and talked to the other 20 or so pilgrims.  Met Barkley from England, John from Ireland and Jeannette from Denmark.  They formed their little threesome a ways back and were having fun together.  Also met Julie from CA who was making the Camino to mark her 50th birthday.  Very nice.  The scenery and the fabulous churches are beautiful, but somehow relationship with God has a lot to do with my communion with others along the way.  To hear their stories is always inspiring to me.  And every person, young or old,  has been friendly and helpful and kind.  We are truly in this adventure together: on the Caminoas in life

On to Belorado then to Tosantos where we saw caves carved into the side of the mountain. On to Villafranco where we stayed at the AntonAbad Albergue.  Very nice.  Had dinner with Scott, an Episcopal priest who is the COO of the Epuscopal Diocese of Baltimore and knows Karen's daughter in law Autumn, who sings solos in the Episcopal Church in Baltimore!  Small world!
We were pretty scared to leaveVillofrancobecausecwe had heard how difficult the two mountain tops were that we had to climb.  By the way, one of our favorite people, Maggie from Australiabunked with us her friend had bowed out at the last minute and when we first met her she was traveling solo. When we saw her here she had joined two other women from Australia.   All so nice.
We all had to sleep in top bunk. Not fun.  Was Helens first time and she wore her sandals toned to get up and down in te night the rungs of the ladders are tortuous!
So, we started out before light and went straight uphill for at least 45 minutes, but I did it without stopping every 10 feet!  It was up and down for awhile and I think I was OK because I could not see for the first hour or so!  It didn't seem as bad as I thought!
Went to Ages, a beautiful little eating place. The owner was full of ice and eager to please!  Had great fun. Ran into Michael from Germany who is just too adorable. He must've all of 28! He was traveling with a new friend fromDenmark.  Of course they communicate in English which is the universal language.  I did tell someone I felt guilty that I could not communicate and he said it is a pity.  I agree, but it is not like we live close to other languages in the US.  I guess I should at least learn some Spanish.  It is interesting that I failed a course in French in college and struggled with it when we lived in Belgium, but I am coming up with all kinds of French words here.  It is amazing. I had no idea I knew so much French!!!
We were exclaiming about the perfect day with perfect food and walk and weather.  Started walking to Atapuerta where we were interested in seeing the excavation site where earliest man has been found.  Five minutes out of Ages, a ravaging storm descended upon us.   Hail, blustery wind, cold, rain: you name it.  We were absolutely drenched when we reached Atapuerca. Have never walked in shoes where my feet were sloshing in water in my boots.  We sought refugee in the first place we saw which was an albuergue.  We were looking around for a taxi phone number when an angel appeared! A young Italian man sitting on a bench told us he was waiting for a taxi to Burgos and would be happy for us to join him!!!
We were dropped off at a hotel recommended.  No space.  Sent us to Hotel Jacobean, which was absolutely horrible.  No window in our room, in the basement, no pictures, difficult to get in the shower.  So bad.  We were drenched so showered, came to our senses and decided to get a refund for night two and stay at an ice hotel for our free day. We moved yesterday to HotelEl Cid with a wonderful view of the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  Had a nice lunch if Castilian Soup(bread, egg, meat Beth of some kind. Tasty. Different!  Went to Cathedral which was exquisite. Then we had made foot massage Appts. Usually you would think 45 minutes and done.  For two hours they had us in different rooms administering a massage, tens pulsation and ultrasound. It was really weird. After two hours, Karen took off the tens apparatus and announced that we had to leave. After another 20 minutes working on my blisters we walked of there: too late to go to the Evolutionary Museum or to return to the church.  We did get to the Post Office to pick up our boxes sent from Lagrono. And we packed another box to sent to Santiago where we will end. My pack is still too heavy
To bed! Buen Camino!

Would love to post photos but don't know how to post from my photos on Windows to blogger.  If anyone can give me step by step instructions I would be most appreciative had to delete my google photos before I left home as it was using too much data on my iPhone.
Left Lagrono at 6:15 and walked 15 miles!  We were making good time until the last hour or so then my blisters really started otheing me I have one on the side of my heal and a large one on the inside of my big toe.  Painful! I have applied Benjoin and will do so again in the morning.
We arrived in Najera and found a four day old hostel on the way out so we are ready to go in the AM!   Had a lovely dinner of pork, salad and wine!  We had showers and washed out clothes.  Afraid they wouldn't dry in our hotel room so did not do laundry now a day behind with no clean clothes.  Going commando tonight! Eating my hiking pants to bed. Bad news!
In Navarette we went to see Our Lady of the Assumption. It was so powerful. Really breathtaking.  I I could only sit and listen to the music and try to take in the beauty of the Blessed Virgin and Jesus represented in so many different statues.  I so wish I could have taken pictures that would depict the beauty.
Walked through vineyards and olive groves.  Hope all is well in the states. So far removed from the news. Thank goodness!  BUEN CAMINO!

Had a great free day in Logrono.  Ready to hit The Way tomorrow, with duck tape on the ball of my feet and soles of my feet, and moleskin with two toe sleeves on my toes!!  Bradley had told me about Benzoin and I brought some with me which has been great.
we left Maneru we went to Estella and stayed at a Capuchin monastery where we stayed in a three person room and saw Michelle from Germany and two couples we met from New Zealand.  Fun to exchange stories!  For supper one of the dessert choices they had translated into English as "a mess of fruit".  Delicious fruit cocktail.
Yesterday walked from Estella to Los Arcos (for those following with a map).  It looked like a run down western town and was very disappointing.  Karen had gone ahead to secure our beds.  She walked into this grungy place: Camino Albergi, and behind the counter was a young girl with a tshirt:   "f... Yourself".  Our bags had been sent there so a slight problem.
Had beer and pasta in the town square. Ran into Mikela from Germany, John from CA and Michael from Germany.  Great time.  We tried a couple other albergues but no luck.  Mikela, John and Michael had to sleep in a mans yard the night before.  Very difficult getting beds.  The three of us decided to taxi forward to Logrono.  We were sorry to skip Viana but need to be reasonable.  We are working as hard as the young folks ( those under 60!) but we just keep up!
Our next break is in Burgos in7 days.  We have advanced 100 miles, walking 80. Hope to do better in the next stage. It is very hard. It does help when we send packs forward.  Today we each sent a box ahead to Burgos.  We have to lighten our pack and some things we figure we won't need until it gets cooler.
Off to bed. Early morning. Buen Camino!!!

Back in action!  A free day in Logronos and we are ready to get back on track!!

We are taking a zero day tomorrow and have settled into a real hotel with real beds and unlimited hot water and air conditioning and real restaurants with salads!  And the most amazing part is that the light stays on while we are using the toilet!  Sitting on the toilet with seconds to go before the light goes out and it is pitch black and you don't know where the toilet paper is and the only way to turn the light back on is to walk to the door on the opposite side of the room and wave your hand over the switch is NOT fun!

Left the wonderful Camino del Perdin Albergue in Uterga at 6:50 this morning. Used our headlamps and I enjoyed the quiet and watching the sun come up. So beautiful.  I didn't tell you we reached one of the highlights so far: Alto del Perdon which is a wrought iron representative of medieval pilgrims. Getting up there was so strenuous that I felt like I was doing penance for all my sins. By the time I arrived I was in tears. Not sure if my tears were a physical release or emotional!  This is hard work!! Going down the mountain is so hard on legs and feet. Karen went ahead to secure our reservations.  Helen and I practically crawled the last few minutes!  We saw Jathy, a woman we met at the Convent of theTrinidad the night before. 

Today we went through Puente La Reina with a beautiful Romanesque church,Iglesias del Crucifijo and the pilgrim bridge, Puente La Reina, that was built to accommodate the pilgrims passing through in medieval times. 

Oh, before this we took a 2.6 km detour to see one of the "jewels of the Camino". A twelfth century Romanesque church.  No more detours for me!  Beautiful church but we have enough miles to walk and enough sites to see without taking detours!!!!  

So hot! Arrived in Maneru at 1:30 and decided to stop. Staying in a three month old Albergue: El Contero which means stone mason and named after the host who is a stone mason. Quite a place with unlimited hot water and beer and a delicious salad!  What more can a pilgrim desire?!  

I do happen to have a pilgrim above me who is from Mexico, loves the NY Yankees, and, has asked me my marital status, age and, my favorite baseball team! Told him if he snores I am kicking his mattress!

One of the pilgrims stopped for ham and cheese sandwich. She asked for mustard and the owner went to his home to get it for her!   Going to do my laundry and to purchase food for breakfast since we will be leaving early.  Buen Camino!

How in the world could I have forgotten to tell you about a wonderful moment today. We were walking around Pamplona with backpacks and poles. All of a sudden I heard angelic voices coming from a very old church in the old town. Karen, Helen and I stopped and listened for a few minutes the followed the singing into a very small chapel with about 15 sisters singing beautiful songs. We went in and sat in the ack and just listened.  So very beautiful.  The chapel only had infant photos of Jesus and over te altar was Mary. And on the side was a beautiful statue of Mary!  We were a little taken aback with the beauty, simplicity.
These are the moments I will cherish!

It is 6:30 and I am resting.  Not even sure I can make it to the pilgrims meal because I am absolutely, totally exhausted!  Have not seen more than a couple who are Helen and my ages. The young pilgrims are passing us at every turn.  Today was very hot and once again we went up, really up, for miles and then we had to go straight down on loose stones.  Very scary.

At the moment we have a Spanish speaking woman getting reservations about 10 miles away for tomorrow.  I didn't think we would need reservations but we surely do.  Makes it difficult because we are not sure how far we want to walk.  We had reservations for tonight but had to be here by three.  Karen went ahead or we would have had to relinquish our spots arrived 15 minutes late. 

Once more I am sleeping above an Italian man.   Getting in and out of top bunk is difficult.  Especially with no ladder!!

Helens friend gave her a plaque: walk, sleep, eat, repeat!!!! That's about it. I hope it starts to be fun! So far it has been grueling. They say the first third is about physical, second half emotional and the third spiritual.  We will see.  

Meeting very nice people from Australia, New Zealand , Scandinavia, lots from California, Canada, Italy, France, Russia and so on.  Most everyone speaks English which always makes me feel slightly guilty since I can't speak anything but English!
By the way. In Uterga tonight.  Went through Pamplona today. 

They have the Running of the Bulls every year which is a very big thing. At the parties before the event people spray each other with red paint. Saw the stadium where the bull fights are held. Reminded me of going to a bullfight in Torremelinos where I looked at the ground in front of me the entire evening!!
Today we started at 6:30 with headlamps. Hope to do the same tomorrow except I have a man next to me in the upper bunk( separated by a one inch board) who is from Hungary and SNORED like a bullfrog during his nap!  He is in the bunk above Helen!  Good luck!!!

Arrived in Roncevalles today at 3:30 after 7 hours of hard walking.  Stood in line for a bed. At 5:30 I was assigned bed 30 which is a top bunk!!! Should be interesting about 3AM.  Actually it should be interesting in about 20 minutes when I go to bed!  I did splurge and pay for laundry since nothing dried last night and I had to put on wet clothes. Not fun.
Had I internet last night or the night before.  The places we are staying want us to be in the moment and connect with other pilgrims.  Good idea and it works!
I was in a panic all the way straight up the Pyrenees to Orisson because Helens name was not on the receipt and I was afraid I had only one reservation.  I was actually planning on sleeping outside somewhere.  But I did in fact have two reservations in my name. So all was good.  Yesterday was supposedly the hardest day but today was twice as long and very up and down.  I mean straight up, and straight down.  I carried my pack yesterday but wimped out and sent my pack forward today. Glad I did!
Tomorrow we walk 10 miles from Roncevalles to Zibiri.  No place reserved.  Lots of pilgrims. So far Helen and I are the oldest!!!
Breakfasts so far consist of coffee and bread and butter/jelly.  Not very filling and since I don't care for coffee on a regular basis I think I am in trouble!
Off to bed. Vegas trying to figure out how to download a photo but no luck. Will keep trying! Weather beautiful, feet sore, people very friendly and supportive. Buen Camino